The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery
Much has been said and written about car batteries and how to jump start a car
that has a dead one. The thing is, a lot of this info is either incomplete or wrong.
The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
Tube. Duration : 1.97 Mins.
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
A hands on video on how to use jumper cables
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
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Install an Auxiliary Fuel Tank in Your Pickup, Then Buy Gas or Fuel on Your Schedule
RVers who pull travel trailers or fifth-wheel trailers with their pickup trucks know that their range is somewhat limited. Maybe it's 300 miles; maybe even less.
Install an Auxiliary Fuel Tank in Your Pickup, Then Buy Gas or Fuel on Your Schedule
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
Video Clips. Duration : 1.97 Mins.
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
A hands on video on how to use jumper cables
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
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Which is Better - Manual vs Automatic Transmissions?
Settle the Difference between Manual and Automatic Transmissions
Which is Better - Manual vs Automatic Transmissions?
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
Tube. Duration : 1.97 Mins.
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
A hands on video on how to use jumper cables
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
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ATX Power Supply - The Simplest Way To Repair It
I had stopped repairing ATX power supply many years back due to the new one cost very cheap. It's not worth to repair it because the spare parts sometimes were much more expensive than getting a new power supply. Searching for ATX power supply spare parts was not easy as many of them you can't even find them on the internet. Not only that, many complicated and different designed by power supply manufacturers had eaten up our precious troubleshooting time too because of we need time to understand how all these different designed power supply work.
ATX Power Supply - The Simplest Way To Repair It
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
Video Clips. Duration : 1.97 Mins.
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
A hands on video on how to use jumper cables
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
No URL Using Jumper Cables, the Right Way
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Some of the power supply designs were using the PWM IC (UC3842) and power FET, some use the double transistors while some use only a single power IC in the primary side. Because of the manufacturers wants the design to be made into compact size, many secondary or even primary power supply circuit were build into a modular board (smaller board). This made troubleshooting even more difficult because many times the meter's probe can't reach to the testing point.
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ATX Power Supply - The Simplest Way To Repair It
The real reason why I had stopped repairing ATX power supply was the profit margin. If you charge to high the customers rather buy a new unit with one year warranty given. If you charge too low, you may end up in the losing side because of the components replaced, electricity and etc. If you charge reasonable, the profit margin gained can't even cover your time spent on troubleshooting it. I'm here not to discourage you to stop repairing ATX power supply, however if you have the time, have contacts getting cheap power supply components, easy to access many power supply schematic diagrams and etc then you may go ahead to repair it.
ATX Power Supply - The Simplest Way To Repair It
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Okay back to the article, one of my customers had asked me to repair his ATX power supply. I told him to get a new one (since it was very cheap) but he said he couldn't find one that suits his customer's CPU. He wanted a power supply that is either same size or smaller then the original one with same or higher specification but all he could find was a standard size power supply!
As a favors to my customer, I would do my best to help him to repair the ATX power supply. When the power supply was switch on, measurements were taken. The results were over voltage. The 12 volts line shot up to 13 + volt and the 5 volts line became 5.6 volts. After the casing was removed, I found the inside was very dirty and I used a vacuum cleaner and a brush to clean off the dirt. Then I saw four filter electrolytic capacitors had bulged at the top casing.
As you know, we as electronic repairers can't just see things at only one side; we have to see the other sides too. What I mean was, try to see if there are any suspicious components that contributed to the failure of the power supply such as broken components, dry joints, loose connection, decay glue and etc before start checking the suspected area.
What I saw was at the primary side there were some components covered with decayed glue as seen in the picture. I have to carefully remove it by scrapping off the layers of the decayed glue while preserving the outer layers of the components. Once it was done, I clean it with the Thinner solution. Decayed glue could cause serious or intermittent problem in electronic equipment because it can be conductive.
If you repair any ATX power supply, make sure you check the fan too because some power supply failure was due to heat caused by a faulty fan. The purpose of the fan is to suck out all the heat generated by the components inside the power supply. In order for the fan to run smooth, you can service it by using a Philips oil base spray as shown in the photo.
Once the four electrolytic capacitors were replaced and the decayed glue removed, I then have to plug it into a junk motherboard together with a hard disk to test the performance of the ATX power supply and measure all of its output voltages. It seems like the output voltages were back to normal. Once everything is okay I then test it in a working CPU to check for the display.
The reason I test it with a junk motherboard first as a way not to cause my good motherboard to go bad just in case if the output voltages is still very high. Better safe than regret later. By the way you can't test a power supply without load otherwise it may turned on for a while and then shut down. If you do not have a junk motherboard you can always at least connect a hard drive and a wire jumper to its connector to turn on the ATX power supply.
Do you know that most ATX power supply is using dual schottky barrier rectifiers to convert the ac wave into DC voltages? Even in LCD Monitor power supply, a dual schottky were used in the rectification too. For your information, checking schottky diode is different from checking a normal diode. With analog meter set to X10 K ohms, it should show some leakage reading when doing the reverse bias test. If this component becomes faulty it is very easy to get a replacement, of course you have to get one with the right specification. That's all for today, hope you enjoy the article and come back more often to check out for any latest repair techniques that I'm going to share to you.
ATX Power Supply - The Simplest Way To Repair It
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Any car enthusiast knows the ultimate difference between a manual and automatic transmission, based on a number of factors. But for those who are simply content on driving around without giving so much thought about their car's components, these two terms can simply be considered as jargons.
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Which is Better - Manual vs Automatic Transmissions?
So what are the differences between manual and automatic transmissions?
Which is Better - Manual vs Automatic Transmissions?
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Operation
Perhaps you've encountered various technical definitions between manual and automatic transmissions that you can hardly understand their generic functions. Simply put, manual transmissions mean you have full control with your gears while with automatic you can limit your choices between two pedals. These alone already provide their basic distinction. Manual transmissions work well if you like to be the ultimate master of your vehicle. It gives you more freedom when it comes to maneuvering your car on steep hills or curves. It will also allow you to combat tough weather conditions more comfortably than when your auto has automatic transmission.
It doesn't mean, however, that automatic transmission is futile. Because it's very convenient to operate, you can breeze through traffic more easily compared to using automatic transmission. Second, it won't take you much of a long time to determine how to navigate with automatic transmissions. It's even like driving your own go-cart.
Costs
Though automatic transmissions mean ease of use, they do eat up too much fuel; thus, if you're trying to save on fuel, make sure that you're not settling for automatic transmission. You can save at least 10 percent in fuel economy if you go for manual transmission. Besides, automatic transmissions are known to be ultimately expensive. They have a starting market price of 0.
When it comes to repair and maintenance costs, manual transmissions appear to be more superior. They don't need too much refining, so you can definitely save huge bucks in your maintenance and repair budget. In fact, there are a number of car manufacturers who believe that manual transmissions don't need too much in the way of fluid changes. On the other hand, if ever manual transmissions go haywire, they don't cost a lot to get fixed. The clutch, which is one of the most expensive components of a car and the most labor intensive when it gets damaged, is more maintained easily in manual than in automatic transmission. To make matters worse, if your automatic transmission breaks down somewhere, you have to bring jumper cables with you. Otherwise, you won't be able to restart your engine. If this doesn't work, your last recourse will be the towing company.
The Birth of Manumatic Transmissions
During the onset of the twenty-first century, there's a new transmission method that was introduced by automobile manufacturers. It's referred to as the manumatic transmission. It is an automatic transmission that possesses certain manual-transmission features. A good example are the luxury cars of Chrysler. It's definitely automatic, only that you have more control in shifting your gears.
Shopping for the Right Transmission
When you have chosen your own car, make sure that before you actually buy it, you've already performed a test drive. This is to ensure that it suits your taste and your current need. You may also have to check on the EPA rating of your vehicle for both manual and automatic transmission. Keep in mind that this is not completely accurate, but at least it can provide you of a good idea on how much fuel your car can use.
Choosing the Right Transmission
In the end, when it comes to choosing which is which, you shouldn't limit your decision based on pros and cons of each. Rather, think of your car and what you truly need. For example, if you're going to get an Audi for maximum performance, you may want to consider getting a manual transmission so you can have control over its power. If you like to minimize your movements while you're driving, especially in the midst of traffic, automatic transmission is your best choice.
Which is Better - Manual vs Automatic Transmissions?
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They also know or will soon learn that they must think well ahead regarding that required fuel stop. How far before they will run empty should they stop to fill up? Where is there a station which they can get into and out of the pumps without damage? Where is a station of the desired brand or which will take the desired credit card? What is the price, compared to other locations along the route? And so on.
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Install an Auxiliary Fuel Tank in Your Pickup, Then Buy Gas or Fuel on Your Schedule
It's not a simple question to answer. Coming up with the answer often requires significant mental energy and creates stress. Stress which no RVer needs.
Install an Auxiliary Fuel Tank in Your Pickup, Then Buy Gas or Fuel on Your Schedule
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I'll use my F-350 Power Stroke as am example. The factory tank holds 38 gallons. That means that while towing my trailer I can almost always get 300 miles on a tank full, and under the most ideal conditions I might be able to get 400 miles.
Here in the Midwest, finding stations at appropriate spots is not a problem. But how about more sparsely populated areas, where it can easily be 100 miles between towns? And do those towns have acceptable places to fuel? It can be a problem!
With my wife's encouragement, I added a combination toolbox/tank. It holds 45 gallons in the lower part while the upper seven inches or so is a toolbox. That's a great place for a pair of battery jumper cables, a tow chain, a supply of diesel fuel additive, spare oil and oil filter, a lug wrench, and tie-down straps.
This tank has been great for our marriage! Now planning fuel stops is a non-issue because we have enough range that we can easily plan to stop at our favorite places to fill up. With this setup, I tell people that I can run 400 miles, then must find a place to fuel up within the next 300 miles!
Now it is relatively easy to avoid buying fuel in cities or even entire states where the price is "too high."
The results of adding this auxiliary tank are simple: Now we buy fuel on our terms, not when we must. It makes a world of difference in the expenditure of mental energy regarding fueling.
There are several different approaches to aux tanks, from the rather sophisticated to the brutally simple.
The simplest version is just a tank with a pump and a hose. When you want to use fuel from the aux tank, you stop, take the end of the hose, stick it in the filler pipe of the main tank, and turn the pump on. This is simple, easy to install, and easy to understand. And potentially messy! Don't forget to turn the pump off!
The most sophisticated one of which I am aware is the system sold by Transfer Flow. With this system, fuel is automatically transferred from the aux to the main tank. A "control panel" in the cab provides a digital readout of the amount of fuel in each tank. Because of the automation and information provided, this system is considered by many to be the top of the line in auxiliary fuel tank systems.
I chose the middle ground and, as they say, "It works for me!"
The system I installed has a switch in the cab labeled "Main" or "Auxiliary." When in the "Auxiliary" position, fuel feeds from the aux tank directly to the engine. The standard fuel gauge indicates the amount of fuel in the aux tank.
When switched to the "Main" position, fuel flows from the main tank directly to the engine and the fuel gauge indicates the amount of fuel in the main tank.
For me, this system is great: Simple, not messy, uncomplicated fuel gauge readout. And simple fuel management. It serves us well.
There's an added benefit which no one mentions. It provides a back-up fuel pump! I've not heard of fuel pumps going bad in pickups, but I have replaced fuel pumps in two cars. A failed fuel pump can leave you stranded and be expensive to replace. With many auxiliary fuel tank systems, you have a second fuel pump! This creates a redundant system, just like many of the systems in airplanes where the results of a failure of the main system are simply unacceptable.
If your spouse or you spend too much time considering fuel stops or if you simply have to stop too often, you are a great candidate for an auxiliary fuel tank. It puts you in the drivers seat!
Copyright 2007 Keith A. Williams
Install an Auxiliary Fuel Tank in Your Pickup, Then Buy Gas or Fuel on Your Schedule
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Sooner or later you will find your self in a car with a dead battery. So please read on.
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The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery
Here I will give you the right and up to dated way to jump-start a car safely. Of course this is if you are stranded away from home. When you are at home the best thing to do is use a charger, not a booster or cables.
First of all I don't recommend jumping cables to the motorist, second the best options are to use a booster or just call (an expert mobile service) or take the vehicle to an expert shop. If the battery is older than 3 years or so, it could be bad.
If you must use jumper cables then here I will show the right way to do it.
Read the whole article since the info is all over the same.
The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery
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First some information about batteries.
I repair many vehicles with bad batteries. The reasons the battery went bad can be many, so after jumping a vehicle you should seek professional help. Here I will tell you what can make a battery go bad, what to do to prevent it and things to do in an emergency situation.
Why a battery goes bad:
o Bad alternator.
o Bad or loose serpentine belt or off or missing serpentine belt due to another bad component.
o Excessive heat or cold.
o Age.
o Defective Part from factory. (Rare).
o Leaving the car sitting too long or driving the car in short trips not
allowing the battery to recharge.
o Too much drain, like the battery is too small for the demand. Or maybe
there are add-ons like monster stereo systems etc.
o Parasitic drain. Or just leaving the lights or something on.
o Dirty connector/terminals.
o Vibration. When there's no hold down.
o Using the wrong fluid to replenish it, like tap water instead of distilled water.
o Bad computer. The voltage regulator is there in some cars.
o Physical damage. Car accident, being dropped.
Taking care of your battery.
The best way to prevent battery failures is by doing regular maintenance on the vehicle. When regular maintenance is done the battery should be one of
the main items checked. They should clean terminals, top off the fluid if possible using only distilled water, do some tests on it, and of course test the charging system etc.
Even the best batteries will meet their maker sooner or later. They can "die¬hard" or die soft but they all die. The average life of most batteries is about 3 years, believe it or not. Some top of the line batteries can last a bit longer. I have noticed a decline on the life of batteries lately. So if your battery is about that age, have it checked or just change it to have peace of mind specially if you're making a long trip.
What to do if your battery is dead.
In an emergency when a battery is dead, the first thing that comes to mind usually is to "jump" the car. Well I don't recommend this. First of all this is a potentially dangerous action. (Doing this can cause an explosion and injure you or actually kill you (pieces of plastic going off at very high speed can cut your throat), blind you, or deafen you). The best thing will be to call someone to come and check the car or take it to a shop (there's a chance the alternator could be bad, so replacing or boosting the battery may not solve your problem). If you happen to have cables in your car then you have to find another car to boost you. This is dangerous too, because in doing so you can damage very expensive parts in both your and the assistant vehicle. There's a change of connecting the cables wrong if you're not familiar with the process, if this happens you can disable any of the two cars involved for good and incur in more expensive repairs. The best way to do this if you choose to boost the car is with a portable booster. Some have a switch that will prevent you from causing sparks. Also some models have a device that will polarize the system automatically. So it will be impossible to connect it the wrong way. Some can be connected right at the lighter port, but this takes more time because you have to let the booster charge the bad battery for a while, if you try to start the car right away you could blow the inline fuse or burn the cable.
Also after you get your car running, if you disconnect the assistant car and leave the car running to recharge your low battery this will cause serious damage to the alternator. The alternator is not designed to charge batteries that are too low or at zero volts but to keep them charged. The right way to do this is when using a portable booster to leave it connected to the car so the alternator will charge both slowly and not stress it self. The alternator has the ability to sense the battery state of charge and also the system voltage demand. It will charge accordingly. If the battery is very low it will charge continuously, hence straining it self and overheating. After 30 minutes or so you can then disconnect the booster and keep driving the car for some more time to charge the battery fully. Better yet just drive the car to the nearest service place or call a mobile service when you get home. If you're driving at night or your vehicle has day driving lights this will take a little longer. Of course after having any problem with a low battery and getting the car running, the intelligent thing to do is get your favorite tech to check you system completely to have peace of mind.
Another thing that you need to know is this, sometimes you have a battery installed and it fails soon after (one or two days) why? Well there are different reasons, the battery could be defective (very rare), or there's an intermittent problem with the charging system or a device that is putting a small drain after you turn the car off. New cars have many computers and they use a small amount of energy after the car is turned off, but it is a very small amount and it should not drain the battery in less than 3 months approximately. If it does is because one of the computers could be staying awake too long or has an intermittent short. If this happens to you, don't get upset thinking they sold you a bad battery, or that the mechanic is incompetent. The carr has to be diagnosed again to see what happened.
The right way to jump-start a car.
This is the way I recommend to perform a battery jump with cables. This takes a little longer than what most publications recommend, but is the safe way to do it. I am a professional mechanic with 28 years of experience.
Before you even think about getting your jumping cables out you should:
First of all it will not hurt to read your owners manual, there you can find lots of info pertaining the procedure. Like where the battery is "hidden" etc.
Make sure both cars are close enough for cables to reach with out cars touching.
Inspect the battery for signs of damage. A broken battery case is not a good sign. Do not jump if case is cracked or you see fluid leaking.
Set the emergency brake on both cars and turn off both ignitions and any other accessories other than the flasher as mentioned.
Keep at least one of the vehicles flashers on and any other safety device like flares etc displayed.
Battery terminals should be free of dirt and or corrosion. Use at least water and a wire brush to clean them.
Make sure both cars are of the same voltage and polarity. Some cars are grounded at the positive instead of the negative although rare. Most cars in the road have 12 volts batteries. With the advent of hybrid vehicles I will strongly recommend you just calling an expert. Hybrid cars have very high voltage batteries. 12 volts batteries won't harm you even if you touch both terminals but hybrid use much higher voltage. Also avoid connecting the cables backwards; very bad things can happen if you do.
Wear at least eye protection that includes a face protector. Gloves will be nice too. Do not allow battery fluid to touch you, your clothes or the paint job.
In very cold weather make sure the electrolyte is not frozen. (Use a flashlight etc to inspect, not a lighter).
Be very careful not to touch any moving part of the engine like belts, fans, etc while performing the procedure either with the cables or your clothes or jewelry etc.
Now the cable part, (see illustration at the end of article) before you connect any of the terminals make sure they are not touching each other to avoid any sparks. Batteries give off very explosive gasses that can kill you if they ignite. Also if the cables get hot be aware that they could be too thin or the engine could be dragging for some reason. The starter could also be bad (grounding it self). Also may be you have cranked the car too long. Check to make sure the clamps are attached properly. Let tem cool off a bit.
If anything like dome lights come on after the cables are connected, the cables are connected correctly.
The first terminal to be connected as recommended is the positive one in the donor's car then at the disabled car (both at the battery if possible).
Then you connect the negative cable at the battery terminal of the donor's car and make sure you can access the engine at the disabled car to connect the cable there.
When the cars finally starts, keep at least the headlamps on to aid in keeping any voltage spikes from damaging the delicate circuits in the many modules on today's cars.
(+) Is the positive terminal (usually red). (-) Is the negative terminal (usually black). This cable goes to the car chassis and the engine block from the battery.
Disconnecting sequence is the reversal of the connecting sequence
Smoking is not recommended any time you are working near cars.
More about this.
Never hook up batteries in a series circuit way, you will get twice the voltage and blow many things including computers.
This will certainly damage your electrical system to say the least.
Some cars with antitheft systems will activate it whenever the battery is low or disconnected. Again read the owners manual for info on this and how to reset them.
Every manufacturer use different systems.
When jumping a car you have to first charge the battery with the "donor" car for at least 5 minutes or more if possible, then try, with the cables disconnected to start the car. If the car doesn't crank or cranks slowly then recharge some more with donor car, then with cables connected try to crank the disabled car.
When selecting a set of jumper cables make sure you get a good quality set. The thicker the cable the better. Saving money here will prove a very bad choice. Cheap cables can overheat and in many cases burn or just don't work when you use them (cheap construction around the clamps). Also don't get the shortest or the longest. The middle will be best.
Never crank a vehicle more than the recommended lapse in the owner's manual (usually no more than 10 seconds) to avoid damaging the starter. If the car cranks for very long periods with out starting then you could have more serious problems than just electrical ones. Always wait some time before trying again to avoid damaging your starter or damaging the donor's battery.
If when you connect the last cable at the disabled car you see a lot of sparks make sure there isn't anything on, or the cables are connected properly (polarity), otherwise some sparks are normal since the disabled car's battery is probably very low or just dead.
There are some top-of the line cables that feature a foolproof device against connecting them wrong.
Every time the battery goes too low it gets weak. Different from deep cycle batteries on boats or RV's, car batteries are not designed for this and will after a few discharges just quit altogether
Batteries used to be better known as "accumulators" and you can guess why don't you? Yes they store electricity and the alternator's job is to keep it charged not to charge it from 0 volt, that is the job of a charger.
A battery won't get damaged if kept in the concrete floor instead of on top of a piece of wood. The way batteries are constructed today prevents this.
You don't need to go and spend big bucks for a battery at the dealer, not to mention towing costs. Any battery that meets the specification of your vehicle will do well if maintained properly. The trick here is to get the right battery, meaning the right capacity. Never use one that has less than what is required. A little bigger is better.
Some batteries have a little window that has a green or black indicator to tell you if the battery is good. Well this indicator is not very accurate for this, since it only measures the state of charge of only one of the battery's 6 cells. Another cell could be bad and you could get a "green" indicator even tough the battery has only about 10 volts, which is not enough to properly start a car. Some of the devices on your car might still work tough. The car will crank very slowly.
If by any chance acid gets in your eyes, do all you can to get it out pronto. The more it stays there the bigger the chance for cornea damage.
If you suspect a bad connection on the jumper cables, do not wiggle the connector while connected. Disconnect one on the disabled car first then wiggle the suspect ones then reconnect the rest. Remember you want to avoid making sparks.
After using the jumper cables wash them with water if possible and store them in the bag they came in. This will avoid damage to your trunk from the acid that gets stuck to the terminals.
Always work on a well-ventilated area.
The alternator. The heart of the system.
If your alternator is bad, it was the cause of the dead battery in the first place; so jumping the battery won't get you too far. As a matter of fact you probably won't be able to drive even a mile more. You could end up at a neighborhood where you don't know anyone that will be too wiling to help you.
If the battery or alternator or charging light was on before the battery died, then it is still on after you jump the car then the charging system could have a problem. It will be a good idea to contact a professional.
An alternator could be malfunctioning even if you don't see a red light in your dash telling you so.
If you are knowledgeable and want to test your charging system with a voltmeter, consider this, some carmakers have systems that will not charge when the battery is found to be full. This is done to prevent overcharging and also to increase miles per gallon (The drag on the engine is less) This also helps the durability of the alternator.
Alternators are not designed to "charge" batteries (specially newer cars, they are usually weak in this area). Their job is to keep a fully charged battery that way.
When a battery goes down for any reason, the alternator has to work overtime to bring it back to normal. The use of day driving lights is one of the reasons many alternators fail prematurely, the alternator works harder than in a regular system. But they do offer a good safety measure. Also accessories not installed at the factory like monster stereos will also put an extreme demand on a stock system not designed for such loads. There are some high amp alternators available for these cases. Also the use of multiple batteries helps. Consult an expert in this field for assistance.
Never disconnect a running car battery terminal to "test" the charging system. This was done long ago before cars started using computers. But today doing this can and will damage very expensive components. Also it can create sparks that could cause an explosion. Believe me, many people still use this method to test the alternator, yes even people that "think" they know, like some airplane mechanics.
Starting a car with the cables connected and letting it run could damage systems in either car. Things like computers etc. I have fixed many vehicles with bad alternators and computers due to this. That is why I recommend charging the bad battery by letting the good car charge the bad one for at least 10 minutes. Then you can disconnect the cables and start the car with out damaging anything. There's a theory that running two cars with the cables connected can damage the alternators. I will up date this article with some facts about this.
Push starting; it may not get you too far either.
Another way to get a car running is by push starting it. This is not recommended either. First, damage to the drive train is possible, (Expensive) especially if done often. Second, as I mentioned before, if the car doesn't run because the battery is dead, the alternator will work too hard to charge the battery when you get it started. If the problem is the alternator, the car won't run too far at all because the battery is not getting any charge so it will be depleted very soon. Push start should be done only in extreme emergency situations. As I said, be intelligent and call an expert.
I hope the information here was of help to you. As always no one is perfect. If you think there's a mistake or want to add something to this article, by all means contact me directly.
Considering the low cost of replacing the battery with a new one and after reading this information I am pretty sure you will decide not to risk performing a jump instead of replacing the battery. Unless of course, you are a professional and/or already know what I wrote here.
Today's cars are very complex machines; it is better to leave things to the experts when it comes to dealing with them. You will actually save more money (or even your own life) that way by avoiding costly mistakes.
CMT of Miami works on all brands and models of vehicles. We specialize on battery installation and alternators. When you use our services you can rest assured that you will get the right battery and professional service right at your doorsteps for a fair price.
The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery
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